
For starters, lets begin with the most common on-the-bike-fashion blunder: the filthy chain (see photo right). Not only is this terribly unattractive, but it is euthenasia for your drive train. And if, for whatever reason, you need to touch your chain, you will have a black greasy disaster on your hands. Literally. Oh yeah, this much chain junk will make you slower on the bike as well.
So it is very important to clean this area of your bike on a regular basis, i.e. every other day or so.

When you do this, you will have less cat. 6 calf marks on your legs, less chain grease all over your clothes and house, and your drive train will last longer. No need to do anything drastic like put your bike in the shower with you, but a spray bottle and rag or paper towel will go a long way. If your chain looks similar to the photo above, I recommend using WD40 spray as a degreaser. Spray the chain and wipe down with a rag. Then lightly apply chain lubricant to the chain, spin the chain for several seconds, and wipe down again.
The spray bottle and rag situation is very important for the overall look and care of you and your bike. Its simple, inexpensive, and can go a long way in keeping your bike looking slick. If you ride a white saddle like I do, I think it is important to wash down the saddle to keep it looking bright and white. For saddles, I recommend trying to find a saddle that is a reasonable match to your frame. I know that saddles are very expensive, so don’t really worry about this unless you are about to purchase something new in the near future.

While you are at it, be sure to wipe down the rest of the frame. Make an effort to focus on areas such as the top and down tubes, the head tube, and the stays. Honestly, I wouldn’t mess around with the bottom bracket area - thats something that might require a hose and brush, especially when the weather is bad. If your bottom bracket is very dirty, try not to show it to anybody.
This photo also exhibits the importance of matching water bottles. I know, I know, you always lose them in the feedzone at road races, etc. But here is a solution: always keep a matching pair of water bottles for your bike that you don’t have to take to races. If you do not have a drink sponsor that provides water bottles, I suggest something like the Nalgene bottle for cycling cages, which you can use again and again. The plastic is harder than traditional water bottles, which makes it better for your health as well and your drinks will tast better.
Next I’d like to highlight a sensitive issue: the stem angle. I think

that your bike will always look its best when the stem is run in the negative position. Of course, this might not be possible for all people and I’d like to encourage fit over fashion here. However, when you have a new fork, be sure to measure with diligency and don’t be afraid to use matching spacers in order to run your stem in the negative direction. This photo also presents an opportunity to discuss handle bar tape. While everyone will have their own brand preference, my strongest recommendation would be for one that you can wash or a dark color. Here my bike has white handle bar tape, that was a team color, that looks a little dingy.

The photo to the left here exhibits the stem face and head tube. Please also make note of the power meter cable. This area is especially prone to unattractive problems. Do not let is area become the collection site for your exotic dead bug collection. Gross. Use the spray bottle and rag to wipe down. You may need a little elbow grease to get the bugs off this area, especially after a road trip with bikes on the roof rack.
As for the power meter cable (or whatever training tool you use), try to make sure that the transition from frame-to-housing-to-handlebars is smooth. I know this can be difficult for many cyclists, but don’t be afraid to us zip ties (in a color that blend in with your frame), small pieces of clear packing tape (I recommend for the underneith section of the down tube or stays only), or a little creativity. Zip ties will not scratch your frame if applied properly and can be found in several sizes.
Here I would like to point out the importance of matching tires. Of course, this might be one of those “I’ll use what I can get my hands on” typ of issues. I know it is for me. But when you have a chance, a tire sponsor, or go tire shopping, be sure to get a matching set. This seems very obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people enjoy miss-matched tires. My biggest problem is that the front and the back tires wear out at different rates, making matching tires on my bike a rare occurrence. Notice in this photo that my brakes are open. Not cool.

Finally, I’d like to add something especially for the women cyclists out there: the importance of earrings. I know that not everyone has their ears pierced, but I would encourage it. And I also encourage all women cyclists to not be shy about wearing reasonable jewlery on the bike. Why not? I recommend a large stud earring that matches your kit or your favorite on-the-bike outfit. Make sure that your helmet straps fall just below the ear lobe so that the earrings are visible, but the helmet is still secure. My personal favorite is large cubic zirconia (2-3 karrots in each ear, depending on size and the look you are going for), which is the green choice as compared to diamonds, which
Taitt tells me are very controversial and I should not mention. Plus, we have already concluded that most people reading this post aren’t rolling in dough. With CZ, you can get any size you want at the cost of dinner, and all the sparkle of the real thing. But really, any larger sized stud earring will work, within reason. I would shy away from on the bike earrings such as hoops of any size (they flap in the wind), dangling anything, or studs that are larger than your ear lobe.
Thats it for now.